Fitting Alignment Pins Aligning the Canard Fitting Elevators & Torque Tube to Fuselage
Trimming Elevator Ends |
|
Securing the Offset Control Arm Nut |
|
Approach #1 |
|
Then I got to thinking, what if I need to remove the bolt totally out of the tube, separating the elevator and the control arm - the nut is going to fall off somewhere inside, I will have no way of getting to the nut with my home made wrench...!@#$. |
Approach #2 |
Here's what I did - I cut up a small 1/16" aluminum tab and mounted a nut plate on it with rivets as always. Then I carefully replaced the existing nut with the new nut plate. I also shaped a new Clark foam cover with a slot cutout to accommodate the aluminum tab. |
|
|
Inboard elevator ends are glassed in and sanded off. It turned out nice. I like this approach better then the first, but I'll find out how well it'll work the next time I have to mess with that bolt. |
Installing BID over Fuselage Sides |
|
I removed the canard elevators several for fill and prime in Chapter 25. Its time to put it back - well not so quick. There are three simple tricks that can help to slide the steel rods back a bit easier...
1) Use a sliver of masking tape and attach to the edge of the washer. This way, you can hold the washer in place while sliding the steel rod through. Refer to the trick Fitting a small washer in Tight Space.
2) Once you inserted the steel rods through the outboard holes, it starts to droop down (inside the elevators). Now, you'll have a hard time getting it through the second and the third holes. I removed the elevators and re-insert the steel rods (without the elevators) to confirm which direction the rods are drooping. It becomes obvious once you get a chance to see it.
Here's the trick - once you got the steel rod in the first hole, turn the canard right side up. The steel rod will find it's way to the middle and third hole - pure magic!
3) Grab the end of the steel rod with a vice grip (or hand drill) and turn the steel rod slowly while feeding it in. Life is good again!